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Author Topic: Spur Making  (Read 4610 times)
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Bruce Cheaney Custom Bit, Spur and Saddle Maker.


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« on: October 01, 2011, 08:20:22 AM »

 I am working on a pair of handmade spurs this morning, I already have the silver cut which is a good thing.
The heel band will be 1 1/4" X 9 1/2" in lenght which is really long, the customer wears a size 12 EE boot
and the heel band needs to be extra long for this pair of spurs.
 These will be reining horse spurs some of the other specs are 2" shanks with a chap guard and the shanks
will be 1/2" thick. The spur rowells are five leaf clover 1 1/4" X 1/8" thick.
 I will be doing the stock removal method for the spur shanks as well as the heelbands and as far as the
spur rowells they are fairly easy to make. Anyway I try to post a picture after they are done.
 Bruce Cheaney webmaster of BitandSpurMaking.com

p.s. I don't stay online all the time but do check in every day or two to see if anyone has a comment or question.
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« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2011, 03:33:31 PM »

 Last week I talked about a pair of Handmade spurs that I would be making, well I have completed them
and here is a picture, Log in to take a look.
 Everything you see here is handmade and handcut.
The spur rowells are O1 oil hardening tool steel and quinched and then tempered.
Spur shanks and heelbands are made by stock removal method, like I said the heelbands are 1 1/8" wide
and 9 1/2" in lenght and 3/16" in thickness.
 The nickle siver pieces are hard solder on and will stay from now on.
I always feel good when I get finished with a project and set back and relax and look at what was able put together.
 I also made a pair of spur straps and you can view that picture here as well.
 Have a great day! Bruce Cheaney, Bit and Spur Making
 
« Last Edit: October 07, 2011, 03:45:49 PM by webmaster » Logged

Bruce Cheaney Custom Bit, Spur and Saddle Maker.
shane hester
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« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2011, 03:39:09 PM »

Hello mr.cheaney,
                        how do you determine the length of the bands for each size?
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« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2011, 05:29:12 PM »

Shane, Here are a few specs I use; 
1. Ladies or small men's heel band 8" end to end.
2. Regular lenght men's 8 1/2" end to end up to about size eleven boot.
3. Size 12 boot 9" end to end.

These specs work for me, I just made a pair that measured 9 1/2" end to end
the man wears a 12 EE I had to shim my jig so it would be big enough everything
worked out good.
 You can make adjustments that work for you this should be a good starting point.
 Bruce
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shane hester
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« Reply #4 on: October 13, 2011, 02:43:33 PM »

Thank you and i have another question and that is how many diffrent jigs do you personally use to build diffrent size heel bands?how many different ones is necessary to build the diffrent sizes? Do you open or close them or do you just shim the jigs?and how do you adjust for the fact that some boots for example a 12ee of one brand seem to be wider than another brand the same size.And it seems that leather sole boots seem narrower than say creep sole or am i being to scientific about it?thanks shane
« Last Edit: October 13, 2011, 02:49:58 PM by shane hester » Logged
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« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2011, 06:50:57 PM »

I think I have four heel band jigs right now, I just shim them up until they fit the pattern.
When I get time I going to make at least three more.
Bruce
« Last Edit: October 13, 2011, 06:54:13 PM by webmaster » Logged

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Bruce Cheaney Custom Bit, Spur and Saddle Maker.


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« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2011, 08:24:15 AM »

Yes, the henrob 2000 will weld 1/2 inch thick spur shanks, for a while I used mine to do so until I got a miller syncrowave 250DX.

Bruce
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jasonyachik
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« Reply #7 on: November 11, 2011, 08:41:57 PM »

hello Bruce do you have pic of the way you bend your heal bands .. that is the only thing that is giving my a hard time thank you for your help with this also what is the trick of making the jig what is the best way

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« Reply #8 on: November 11, 2011, 09:18:14 PM »

I make cardboard templates of a boot heel and work on it until it looks right and symmetrical
once I like the pattern I grind a steel jig to the shape of the pattern. It takes a while but
it will last for years under normal use.
 Another way is to bend a piece of flat stock like one inch by one quarter inch around a piece
of two and a quarter inch pipe and then shape it up to match your pattern and then weld it
to a piece of quarter inch plate.
If I have a big boot I trying to fit I just shim my jig with spacers.
 
Bruce
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jasonyachik
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« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2012, 01:41:17 PM »

Bruce what material do you like to use for your heel bands
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Bruce Cheaney Custom Bit, Spur and Saddle Maker.


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« Reply #10 on: January 19, 2012, 12:05:22 PM »

 I like to use and like the way 4130 holds it shape and is springy,
it is possible to use mild steel if it is thick enoungh say 3/16"
and a good quality steel.

Bruce
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Bruce Cheaney Custom Bit, Spur and Saddle Maker.
shane hester
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« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2012, 03:47:33 PM »

On those 3/16 heel bands bout how thick do they end up after you belt sand em and work em down? also do the bands end up having a radiused surface to them from belt sanding?thanks, shane
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Bruce Cheaney Custom Bit, Spur and Saddle Maker.


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« Reply #12 on: February 09, 2012, 05:02:19 PM »

Shane, I like my heel bands to have a radius almost convex, they end up about 5/32" and I try to leave them

as thick as possible where the shanks are welded on.

 Bruce
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shane hester
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« Reply #13 on: February 10, 2012, 09:29:44 AM »

does makin the heel bands convex make it difficult to get your silver formed correctly,what gauge silver do you use? i think i been using mostly 20 gauge, shane
« Last Edit: February 10, 2012, 09:39:02 AM by shane hester » Logged
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Bruce Cheaney Custom Bit, Spur and Saddle Maker.


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« Reply #14 on: February 10, 2012, 04:38:14 PM »

Yes it makes it harder, each piece must be fitted.

For nickle silver I use 032 & sterling silver20 gauge.

Bruce
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